Inside a modest restaurant in Beijing, copper pots glow over red coals, filling the air with the scent of lamb and charcoal as locals gather over steaming bowls of broth. For Mr. Peng, the owner of Defuxing hotpot restaurant, these sights and smells are part of a life devoted to flavor and community.

Mr. Peng grew up in the narrow lanes of the capital’s southern neighborhoods, where life was simple but close-knit. Evenings often found his family gathered around a stove, a metal basin balanced above the flame, sharing a meal that was humble yet full of warmth.

As he grew older, tasting copper pot hotpot for the first time left a lasting impression. The copper pot itself, long favored in Beijing for its even heat and gentle simmer, allows the meat to cook slowly without losing its tenderness, preserving both texture and flavor in every slice.

Bendi Stories: A Life Around the Copper Pot
The copper pot at the heart of every meal at Defuxing.

Building Defuxing

Those early impressions lingered into adulthood, and what began as nostalgia gradually became a calling. Mr. Peng wanted to recreate the warmth of those shared meals — the taste, the setting, the feeling of togetherness. By 2005, he had found a small space near Beijing South Railway Station, then still under construction. While others viewed the area as remote, he saw its potential as a place where regulars might stop by after work, drawn by the comfort of a familiar meal.

The restaurant’s name, Defuxing (得福兴), carries the same sense of optimism that defines its story. De (得) means “to receive,” fu (福) stands for “happiness and fortune,” and xing (兴) means “prosperity” or “flourishing.” Together, the name expresses wishes for good fortune shared among everyone who gathers around the table.

Modest in scale but deliberate in detail, the restaurant’s wooden beams and copper pots evoke the atmosphere of old Beijing dining rooms. Every element was chosen to match the sincerity of the food: honest and unpretentious.

Bendi Stories: A Life Around the Copper Pot
Opera masks form part of Defuxing’s simple, traditional décor.

Preserving flavor and memory

At Defuxing, Mr. Peng has been determined to keep the old methods alive. Each step of preparation happens in-house, from selecting and trimming the lamb to slicing it by hand. The clear broth, heated by charcoal beneath copper pots — the three essentials of traditional Beijing hotpot — preserves the natural sweetness of the meat. Each slice of lamb, hand-cut and rolled on site, reflects the same care that defines every corner of the restaurant. Traditional accompaniments like Chinese cabbage, mung bean glass noodles, and frozen tofu appear on every table, linking each meal to a long line of local culinary memory. 

Over time, Mr. Peng has adapted the menu to modern tastes. Younger guests often choose the “yuan-yang” pot — half spicy, half clear — a reflection of Beijing’s evolving palate. Yet the essence remains unchanged: a focus on authenticity, community, and comfort.

Bendi Stories: A Life Around the Copper Pot
Steam from the copper pot offers a moment of warmth in the bustle of winter.

A warmth that endures

For Mr. Peng, the restaurant is a way of keeping the spirit of Beijing’s southern neighborhoods alive. Defuxing stands not only as a place to eat, but as a tribute to the enduring heart of local life. Winter remains its busiest season, when the glow of the copper pots feels like a hearth against the cold. For Mr. Peng and his longtime team, keeping the pots burning has become both a livelihood and a promise to carry forward a taste of Beijing that still feels like home. 

Words by: Gabrielle Keepfer 
Video produced by: WildChina 碧山 
Cinematography and editing by: Charles Zhu 
Subtitles by: Qing Gu and Gabrielle Keepfer 
A special thanks to: Mr. Peng 
Location: Beijing